Your cat won't play with their toys: getting them going with food
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When your cat won't play with their toys, it doesn't necessarily mean they don't like playing: it may be that none of them looks like prey worth the effort. A cat who ignores mice and balls can still be motivated by food: a game that releases a piece of kibble may get them moving again. Rule out pain first.
Why won't your cat play with their toys?
A cat who won't play with their toys rarely has just one reason: it comes down to the toy, to what the cat has learnt, or to how they feel right now.
| What you see | What it suggests | Where to start |
|---|---|---|
| They look at the fabric mouse, then walk away | To them, this toy doesn't look like prey | A toy that moves, or one that rewards them |
| They have never played, even when young | Play never became a habit | An instant reward that is very easy to get |
| They only play when you hold the wand | You are what brings the prey to life | Short sessions with you, rather than more toys |
| They used to play, then stopped, suddenly or gradually | A physical problem is possible | The vet, before any new toy |
| A new toy amuses them, then they forget it | Boredom with the toys, not a lack of interest | Change the mechanism, not the colour |
That last row is a different subject, covered in our guide to getting your cat to play on their own. Here, we're looking at the cat who isn't interested in any prey. For them, one route runs through the food bowl: a wooden treat dispenser only lets a piece of kibble drop when it moves.
Your cat stopped playing suddenly: should you see the vet?
Yes, and not only if the change is sudden. According to International Cat Care, a cat in pain does less, or stops altogether, of what is normal for them: playing, hunting, jumping, climbing, grooming, scratching. Pain, especially joint pain, reduces play, and the signs can creep in gradually and subtly.
The same source lists other signs to watch for alongside it:
- hesitating at furniture or stairs, or walking stiffly;
- hiding in unusual places or avoiding contact;
- eating less, or chewing on one side;
- toileting outside the litter tray.
If in any doubt, International Cat Care advises contacting your vet as soon as possible. If your cat has never played and shows none of these signs, the next thing to look at is motivation: none of their toys has given them anything in return so far.
Why can food get a cat going when no prey interests them?
Because a cat's play is a hunt, and a hunt ends with a meal. According to International Cat Care, the sequence runs from searching to eating, and hungrier cats play more intensely with toys, as if they saw them as prey.
A fabric mouse stops at the catch. A game that releases kibble goes all the way: search, push, get, eat. According to International Cat Care, puzzle feeders like this stimulate mind and body at mealtimes and let the cat express natural hunting behaviour.
There's no guarantee they will then take an interest in their mice, but they will have searched, pushed and succeeded: that is already play.
Kibble that only drops when they play
The Pelux wooden treat dispenser turns mealtime into an activity: your cat has to search, push and try again, and its openings adjust from easy to demanding. Discover the dispenser →
How do you use food to get a cat who won't play started?
By letting them win straight away. In an online survey by the University of California, Davis, reported by the university, 18% of the 3,192 owners who responded said they had tried a food puzzle and then given up, most often because they felt their cat was too lazy or never worked it out. Its lead author, researcher Mikel Delgado, is clear: make it easy at first, so the cat can work it out without getting frustrated.
- Wait until they're a little peckish. Just before a usual meal, never after a full bowl.
- Set everything to easy. Openings at their widest: almost every push should make something drop.
- Give one demonstration. Drop a piece of kibble yourself while they watch, once, then leave them alone with the dispenser.
- Count successes, not minutes. Change nothing until they've earned several pieces by themselves.
- Make it harder bit by bit. Once they've made the link, narrow the openings to make the game last longer.
- Take it all from their ration. The kibble in the game is part of their daily food, never a bonus.
For a first try, the base version, which your cat pushes, is simpler than the turntable, which has to be rotated: a slightly more involved move.
When is a treat dispenser not the answer?
The dispenser suits a food-motivated cat who doesn't play for want of convincing prey. It doesn't solve everything:
- The cat who only plays with you. What they want is the shared session. A few well-built minutes beat one more object: see how long to play with your cat.
- The older cat who plays less. After a visit to the vet, a game played sitting down may suit them better: the feather spinner toy involves no jumping or running.
- The cat who isn't interested in food. Without food motivation, kibble achieves nothing. If this is new for them, it's a sign to show your vet.
If they seem bored but won't play, the signs of a bored cat help you decide. Other games are in our play and enrichment range.
Frequently asked questions
Should you skip a meal so your cat will play?
No. A little appetite helps; hunger doesn't. Use the time just before a usual meal, and take the kibble from their daily ration. International Cat Care points out that giving more food doesn't reduce the urge to hunt and can lead to weight gain: the game should replace part of the bowl, not add to it.
Your cat gives up after two minutes: has it failed?
No, it's a setting. A cat who gives up quickly finds the game too hard at this stage. Open the holes to their widest and let them succeed several times before tightening. According to International Cat Care, the game should stay a challenge without frustration, and the share of their ration served through it only goes up if they show no signs of stress, anxiety or frustration.
What kibble should go in the dispenser?
The dry kind they like best: the dispenser takes standard dry kibble and dry treats. Very large treats may need the wide opening. Wet food doesn't work: according to International Cat Care, wet food doesn't dispense well from feeding balls and is better offered in an egg box or a cardboard tube.
Key takeaways
- A cat who won't play with their toys isn't necessarily a cat who doesn't like playing: it may be that none of them seems like prey worth the effort.
- A cat who stops playing, suddenly or gradually, should see the vet before any new toy: pain reduces play, sometimes subtly.
- Food can get an uninterested cat going: a game that releases kibble takes the hunt all the way to the meal.
- The method: openings at their widest, one demonstration by hand, quick successes, then more difficulty, all taken from the daily ration.